We were up reasonably early for us and left the marina around 10ish after a shower, this time separately as the lady in the office was watching, bugger another 2 euro wasted. After emptying the toilet cassette we navigated through the city and on the road south to Parnu on the coast. It was raining a bit but not too heavy as we threaded through the morning city traffic. As we passed through the outer suburbs we noticed lots of cops on some sort of patrol or sentry duty on intersections and outside buildings. We are still not sure what that was about whether it was normal for a Tuesday morning or a security or refugee issue as there was a major alert out of Hungary where the refugees had shut down the train station trying to get to Germany but through Austria. They now have figures of over 250,000 this year mainly Syrians so a huge problem.
It was pretty quiet on the road except for lots of trucks, no campers or caravans seems they have all gone home or staying in Tallinn. Actually we were the only campervan on the ship from Finland and there were only a handful on Finnish vans in Tallinn – doesn’t seem like many come to these European countries. We stopped at a highway stop for a coffee then drove on to Parnu. It was still raining when we got to the camp (again where would we be without the tablet) and found a nice spot overlooking the river. Not the biggest or prettiest of camps but within a 1km walk to the town and all facilities. We managed to get a couple of loads of washing done but the dryer wouldn’t tumble so pain but got them hot then hung them out in the van. Vicki’s ingenuity came to the fore and we emptied out the cupboard and hung some washing in there and turned on the heater and it acted as a warming area with the sheets hanging off the doors. Very efficient and dry in a couple of hours and also a cosy little van with the sound of rain on the roof. Great wifi here so explored the net, caught up on the sport while Vicki did the more important task of sussing out campsites for the next two countries. Had a nice ready-made salmon fettuccine meal for the 3rd nite but still yummy.
It was only misting light rain when we walked into town the next day and halfway in thought we should have taken the bikes but too late. Like a lot of these places they have an old town for tourists then surrounding modern shopping centres and buildings which are not really for tourists. We had a wander around in the rain then found a lovely warm café for coffee, cappuccino and a tasty cherry tart. The drinks were so nice we had another round and then the place started to fill up with lunch people so we left. By this time the rain was still coming down but a bit harder. So brollies out we walked down to the seaside area through beautiful oak tree lined streets, parks and residential dwellings with the occasional restaurant or café. Obviously this area would be buzzing in summer as it is a very popular with locals and tourists but as the summer has now ended it is quiet especially today with the rain. The beach is a really well laid out area with lots of children’s play areas, volleyball nets, sun loungers, changing booths and even an elephant slide out in the water which would be great for the kids when the tide is in. It looks a very safe beach and was originally established by the Russians in the late 1800’s and they built a larger resort spa and mud baths which they have just reopened. The whole area is surrounded by spectacular parks, rotundas, flower and trellis lined avenues and even today, raining and grey, the beauty is evident. Vicki had to go to the loo so she went to one where a lady looks after it and keeps it clean. It cost 40c and great to help to keep someone in work and small price for cleanliness which we don’t see often. Unfortunately I am a jew and hate paying to go to the loo so a little way along I find a secluded free tree to contribute to nature.
Carrying on we find a large building which is supposed to be Estonia’s largest pub but it is closed for the rest of the year as there would be no custom to make it worthwhile now. We see a poster advertising some show which looks quite cool and when I see another smaller one I feel I have to have it for our future bar. But as I am souveniring it a lady comes along then turns back around walking towards us talking on the phone like she was providing our description and giving me what Vicki said was a filthy look. The little poster was now out of date so surely who cares but maybe they are precious about tourists taking things but who knows. Vicki started getting up me about how we have to be bloody careful in other countries doing something which we know is trivial but not worth the danger (seems to have forgotten the (bigger)poster we ‘acquired’ inside a Helsinki bar) (Actually I wanted to ask if we could have it and Scot just took it…V). Sure enough two minutes later as we are walking through a park to the little café we had spied for lunch we heard sirens and a cop car heading towards the beach. Not sure if it was us related but Vicki still didn’t want to swap rain jackets with me as we slunk further into the park to hide. Hopefully the cops saw the other poster that was left and put it into the too hard basket or hopefully cautioned the lady for wasting police time. But we have heard the police are on the take in this part of the world so any excuse may be attractive. (I was literally shitting myself and felt sick….V)
However we had a nice lunch V fish soup and me a dish of olives, capers, artichokes & oven grilled capsicum with a brioche yum yum. After that we headed back to the old town looking a statues and monuments on the way and walked around the 1400 bastion surrounding it which now has a small marina and walkways. We didn’t feel the need to see any more of the old town so walked in the steady rain back to the camp earlier than we normally do for beer & cider and a warm van. V got to pat and cuddle a camp pussycat that was happy to sit on her knee for a bit making her very happy. Tea is the last of the fettuccine so glad that it is all gone now. A small port and chocolate rounds off the day.
(I continue..V)
When we left Tallinn the outer areas of the city were interesting. A lot of the houses look really old but most were in a very poor state of repair on the outside. It seems as if people are unable to afford the upkeep of the outside of their homes – mostly timber. It is a great shame as even if they are lovely on the inside the outside looks so shabby. Even in the city though I have to say that although a lot of the buildings were very nicely done up, there were those that were in great need to re-rendering and painting. I imagine it is quite costly to do and most here wouldn’t be able to afford the upkeep I am sure. As we hit the rural areas even the bush looked quite unkempt and unloved. There is a lot of rural land that looks like it is unused by anyone and then you come across the standard pine forests. Here, they take off all the lower branches so you can see right through the forest easily – looks funny compared to the forests in Scandinavia.
This morning we left Parnu and were going to head across to Tartu before then heading down into Latvia but decided we weren’t going to go into Tartu since it is the second largest city and what would be the point so we took a lower road across the bottom of Estonia and drove via Valga which is a town divided by the border between Estonia and Latvia which driving through seemed quite strange really.
As we were driving in southern Estonia the countryside changed and became far more organised with farms and where there were houses they were better looked after and had nice gardens and a lot were growing their own veges and flowers which was great to see. The southern area is certainly really lovely and was worth seeing. As we drove through Valga and crossed the border the road deteriorated and the cars became old rundown heaps showing what appears to be less well off people in Latvia. Having said that, the houses and gardens still looked really well kept and tended to. We followed a truck almost all the way from Valga down to Valmiera on a road he didn’t want to go fast on as it was so bad, so we took it easy as well and maintained the slow speed and watched while everyone crazily overtook us both even other trucks. We are in a small campground on the outskirts of Valmiera, Latvia and are the only ones staying here. We didn’t see a Campervan or Caravan all day so feel we are a bit on our own now. It will be interesting to see how many are staying in Riga when we arrive tomorrow.
I must say I am completely out of my comfort zone (even though Scot isn’t). There is a lot of very unpleasant things to read on the internet about Latvia and how bad Riga is etc, but I have not let that influence our travel hence tomorrow we are going to stay in the city camp in Riga. Initially we were going to drive straight through Latvia and not even stop, but I think that is a copout and we should at least see some of the country and Riga is supposed to be really lovely, even if it had/has the largest crime rate in Europe. This country is still part of our experience and adventures and it will form part of our memories as much as every other country will. We will NOT be acquiring any posters or even any wild flowers on the side of the road here. I won’t even take a free sugar sachet! We had to bike into the town here in Valmiera as we didn’t have any coconut milk for the dinner Scot is cooking for the next few nights but I just don’t feel comfortable. Maybe it’s because people look at the van and then seem to look at us with contempt or something I’m not sure but this part of the holiday for me is done a little under duress and I am not finding it as enjoyable. I will look back on it I hope and think it wasn’t so bad. I am concerned about driving into Riga tomorrow though as it is supposed to be quite insane and we have to drive right into the heart of the city – maybe I am a sucker for punishment, but I will have the video recorder playing for sure just in case. A lady at the camp in Parnu said people don’t stick to lanes and even though there may be two lanes they still drive three abreast. Stay tuned for the Riga report after the weekend – if we make it through…lol!
One hinge has just broken on our van door that now we have to look at getting fixed, but that is another story – unless Steve…..you could just pop over and weld the aluminium hinge together for us????
