Category: France

AIX LES BAINS AND INTO ITALY

In the morning we decide to check out where the water is coming from, so pull up all the bed and find there is water leaking through the inside of the van and is lying in the inside gutter.  Very shitty, not another problem.  It looked like the water pump was a problem to us as there was some water leaking out of there and every few minutes it would pump for no reason plus the filter housing was broken. We figure there must be a camper repair shop somewhere near and ask the reception lady if she knows one and ask if she could phone since it will be difficult to explain technical stuff in French.  I am not that good, I can only speak simple French talk.  She phones a place but they don’t want to know us, they are too busy.   Another  French camper had spoken to me earlier in the morning and we had had a great conversation.  He thought we were from England and since his 18 year old daughter was there for 3 months thought he would chat to us even though he knew no English.  So I went back to ask him if he know of another place nearby.  He was a mechanic and had changed his own water pump so he goes with us to a nearby boat place as boats also have the same pumps but they don’t have the right one.  He then drives with us to a nearby camper store where they have what we need plus a hardware store that has the fittings required.  It is late when we get back and although Scot wanted to go back to the Skiff pub and have his moules et frittes (mussles and fries) but it is too late so we decide we are staying another day so he can have them.

Friday 6th November

With the help of the wonderful French man we get our water pump replaced.  We are very grateful and can’t thank him enough.  I want to take them out to lunch but they decline saying it isn’t necessary but It is a small payment for a huge help he had been.  We have a lovely walk along the lake front which is so nice on a day like this one.  We are 3 weeks from winter here and there is no snow yet on the surrounding hills when there should be and the day temps are at least 20 if not more (we were sweating…..well I was).  Later in the day we buy the French man a few beers and take them over for him and then head out to the pub for a well-deserved dinner out.  Beautiful food, but so much of it.  I am feeling quite ill still in the morning, perhaps the profiteroles were too rich, but do you think I would have missed them out???  Mais Non!

We pull up the bed again to see if the underneath is dry, but unfortunately not.  The pump was not the only problem we have had with water leaking.  We now believe the other leak is coming from the hot water system which we rarely use.  It has gas and electricity connected so is not something we can do anything about ourselves.  The French man and his wife are leaving today and the campsite is closing anyway.  Who closes a campsite a week early when there are still 20 people wanting to stay there a night and at 20euro I would have thought it would be worth it, but they obviously don’t.  We head off to the camper store we bought the pump at, but they won’t help us with the leaking hws.  We go to the next one and thankfully they agree to do a bypass on the hws as they can’t fix it as it is English and they have no parts.  We have to wait until Monday afternoon though.  Oh well I can think of worse places to stay than here and since the campsite is closed it will be freedom camping on the lakeside with the other thrown out campers.  We head back to the parking area and sit in our chairs in the sun and watch people playing petanque, families walking with dogs, people cycling, very busy indeed.  We sit and enjoy until about 4pm when the sun goes behind the snowless mountains and you feel the real air temperature which has quite a chill.  We are parked with a number of other campers and feel quite safe here.

Sunday 8 November

We need groceries before we leave France so we decide to bike and find the Carrefour which is a supermarket we love here in France and also in Belgium.  We get a bit lost and then we come across the typical Sunday market.  I don’t really like markets and this one is no exception.  Nothing worth buying, just lots of stuff that isn’t necessary to own.  There is a little bit of food but it is expensive so we pass on that and there is also a second hand area of the market.  The market continues for a huge stretch and encompasses all the surrounding streets as well. We end up having a coffee in a lovely wee shop before we head out away from the markets with our baguette for lunch.  We missed the supermarket, it closed just as we got there at midday so we will go back tomorrow.  Back at the van and we head along the lake front for a lovely walk feeding the ducks and water hens.  It is really crowded being a beautiful Sunday when it should be cold but people here are strangely still wearing their winter jackets, boots etc and here are Scot and I in our t-shirts and shorts.  We do get some strange looks, but who is the weird one, we are dressed for the sun.

Monday 9 November

Our appointment isn’t until 3pm so we decide to bike again to the supermarket and get a few things.  We only have our two backpacks and it becomes very obvious that we need to bring the van to buy the rest of the things.  We love being back in France, with the crisp baguettes, lovely cheeses, wines, and the food is cheaper than we have had for a couple of weeks.  We can even find lamb chops for Scot which is a bonus after months of not finding them.  Our staple baguette lunch and we head out for our appointment and another van expense.  Thankfully it doesn’t take long to do the pipe bypass on the hws and we are back on our way, firstly back to the Carrefour supermarket and then on to our free camping park by the lake.  Our last night here before heading into Italy.   A man started speaking to me in the supermarket about sugar in French obviously and he spoke no English.  It was funny but as I started talking to him we had a really great conversation and I revelled in how much my French had come along in such a short time when I had to speak it.  The man really enjoyed the conversation as well I think because we were from the other side of the world and don’t have the opportunity to speak French.  He was so nice and at the end of the conversation he said how much he had enjoyed the conversation and that I spoke quite well and wished us a great vacation.  So nice.  I have never found any French people short and rude like so many people say, but I have always put that down to the fact that I try very hard to speak a little to them.

I am not keen really to go as we have heard many stories from people who have been broken into and robbed in their vans around Italy.  It seems to be one of the worst countries for it, Spain is only marginally better.  We have been heard from people who have had small valuable items, jewellery, cash etc stolen through to people who had windows smashed and all their clothes etc stolen.  What to do.  We decide we will continue on, but we will limit the time in Italy and we will not leave the van alone in towns but we will have to stop in camp grounds and pay the price for security.

Tuesday 10 November

We stop on our way out of Aix les Bains at an Intermarche super where we find they have salmon for only aud15 a kilo and it’s from Norway.  Shame I can’t freeze any but we buy a bit and some steak for Scot and head out of France.  There is a huge tunnel between France and Italy and the cost is ridiculous.  57euro to go through the tunnel, 18 euro before it and then in Italy several further tolls just to cross the border.  The alternative road was over the mountains which we were definitely not doing.  We got stopped at the Italian border and asked for our passports and vehicle papers – the first time we have been asked for both.  The police thought I was a bit over excited so told me to calm down.  I have no idea what they were talking about as I was just my normal self, maybe a little apprehensive if anything coming into Italy.  Anyway they were fine, after taking a look Into our van – not sure what they expected to see (they couldn’t see Scots beer stash) – we were off.  We headed around Turin which you could see from the immense smog in the distance as we approached it. Probably the smoggiest dirtiest skies we have seen in all of Europe.  I decided to get a sim in a small town out of Asti.  I hate some of these sim costs.  The sim itself was 10euro, but they then made me pay another 10euro for the plan fee, but they tell you initially it is only 10euro.  Not able to communicate with them in Italian meant I had to pay the extra fee not mentioned initially and leave.  Oh well they are only just another country that has ripped us off on internet data charges.  We need the sim here to be able to book ferries across to Greece later on. We then head just out of Asti to a small secure camping place with power and water that is only 8euro for the night and has a fenced compound.  Hopefully to be safe for the night before we head out to Venice.

The first thing about this secure campsite that assaulted us was the smell of cows in a barn next door to the parkup.  Then as we were settling down to a pre-dinner drink the mooing started.  It was like it was right outside the door and I then realised that it indeed was only about 10ft from the back of the camper.  I can only hope that cows actually sleep during the night and we can’t hear them.

KANDERSTEG, NEUCHATEL, MONTREUX, SWITZERLAND

We wake up to a totally misty, foggy day and surrounded by white, white and more white so we can’t see a thing. All the car parks near us are full as everybody starts their Monday but I wonder what business there is at this time of the year and who is around to frequent them but work goes on as usual.

We get another 2 baguettes and empty and fill the van and head for Kandersteg, back tracking the drive from Saturday but this is not a problem as the drive is worth it. However we decide to gamble on the highway a bit to bypass Bern & Thun to save time then hook on to the road between the mountains. It is scary as you are heading to what seems impassable mountains from a distance and then they seem to open up and let us through with the best grandeur you can imagine. Vicki only remembered she had the hotel business card that our friends Ruth & Mick gave us when they were here so we knew we had to come though we knew it was the wrong time of the year to go dog sled riding as they did but we are going to trek partway up the mountain tomorrow to a lake. As we arrived it seems we drove up to the camp on what must not be a road because a lady tut tuts us as we slowly make our way up a narrow pathway – probably only for walking and pushbikes, but once you are there you can’t turn around and have to continue until you get back on the road.  We had a look around the town which like all the others is picture postcard lovely, had a drink in a hotel and as it was getting dark walked back to our camp as the last of the sun backlit the high snowy mountains in front of us. The contrast up high of the blue sky with the white mountain’s when it is dark where we are is magical and even though we are tempted, no photograph will capture it so it has to be embedded on our memory instead. Yummy green curry for tea and enough for tomorrow nite so I don’t have to cook means we can have a full adventure day tomorrow.

The day starts as a clear beautiful day and we head up a steep path towards the lake in the mountains.  There are two paths and we take what we think is the easiest and less steep of the two but we are wrong and we end up walking up the very steep zigzag path (which we realise is the ski path down the mountain) which they say should only take one hour 15 mins but ends up taking us at least 2 hours.  It is a harrowing climb but when we reach the lake it is so worth it.  The lake is still and a beautiful green colour and reflects the snow covered mountains around it.  It is a sight that you really just want to sit and look at in peace for ages, you never tire of it. We sit and eat our lunch but for some strange reason my blood pressure has gone sky high and I have a dreadful migraine.  Can’t figure it out as I don’t have a problem with blood pressure.  I take double medication to kill the pain and we sit in the beautiful surroundings and absorb the sereneness.  We have a look around the lake a bit but it is a huge lake so don’t go too far.  Other people arrive but not very many as it is very much the off season, plus the chair lift closed yesterday and a lot of people won’t do the climb up, only the climb down.  We take the road back down rather than the steep path we came up (although the road is steep enough and Ruth it was steep enough going down in fine weather, I can’t imagine trying to walk down in the snow and ice).

It is dark by the time we get down and Scot organises dinner.  An earlyish night as we are both tired and I still have a dreadful headache so more medication before going to sleep.  I wake through the night with pain in my side which by morning has me doubled over and in tears.  Scot helps me have a shower before we head off to the nearest hospital.  I know something is very wrong as the pain is too severe to be just a bit of gastro or similar.  It reminds me of when I had appendicitis only the pain doesn’t actually ease off.

An entire day spent in the hospital with blood tests, ultrasound and xray plus pain killers and drip etc.  It is disconcerting to say the least to be in a hospital where only a few speak a little English and everyone around you is talking about you but you have no idea what is being said.  They couldn’t get any veins in either hand or arm so after several attempts they use the most dangerous vein to use in my wrist as it is the only possible one.  This un-nerves  me a lot.  They have no idea what is wrong but the doctor who has done his own ultrasound tells me I have a slightly enlarged bile duct and they suspect I have passed a gall stone.  There are no others and once one has passed there is no other evidence, so it is only a guess.  I am not as bad by the end of the day but by no means out of pain and feeling ok.  They want me to stay in overnight but when Scot sees the costs we say no I will come back in, in the morning.  This is a small regional hospital and the fees for the bed are Aud4,500 per night in a general ward, aud13,500 for a semi private room per night and aud21,000 for a private room for one night.  Well it is one of the most expensive countries in Europe so it figures.  The insurance company has said they can only approve the claim once I have completed treatment so there is no guarantee they will pay – bastards!

Scot decides Frutigen where we are staying is a great place for a run, after all he has been patiently sitting with me all day, so off he goes for a run around town.  I like his runs as they always encompass a beer on the return leg, but this time he also thought of me feeling unwell and brings me home a delicious brownie which we share the next day.  After a sleepless night for me we go back to the hospital and I have another blood test.  There is still nothing showing up, I am fit and healthy so my blood says, so after consultation with the doctor we leave with medications (very expensive) and decide to head towards Neuchatel where there is a free camper stop.  We initially figure one night and then perhaps we will head to Italy where we can get free treatment charged back to Aussie if I need anything further.

The camperstop is great, free electricity, free water and a toilet dump station plus many other campers for simple safety.  We can have a wash in the van so no big deal.  We pull up for the night and decide the next day we will head into Neuchatel and have a look.  I don’t feel well enough to travel any further so we decide we will stay here free until I have recovered enough to move on.  Also the rugby final is coming up in two days and if we move somewhere else we may not see it.  The next day we find an Irish bar in town who are playing the game so we have fully decided to stay. Missing the final is not on our agenda.  Unfortunately we missed the bronze game as it is on too late for us to see.

On the Saturday afternoon we head to a pool that is right beside the free camperstop as we both would love a swim, plus a shower and hair washed would be nice after 4 days.  The pool isn’t full and they also have a diving board so Scot is in his element.  We have a nice relaxing swim, dive for Scot and a shower, head back to the van to change and back into Neuchatel to watch the final.  The Irish pub is packed and we share the bar with several other Kiwis and one token Aussie who seeming remains fairly quiet throughout the game except for maybe one of the point scores.  We are stoked of course with the win, but it was nerve wracking a few times when we thought Aussie would take over.

On Sunday morning I pick up the tablet to check where we will head off to and find for some strange reason it won’t charge.  I think the charging mechanism has been pushed inside and there is nothing I can do about it.  SHIT!!  I can’t believe it, this Samsung tablet is only 4 months old and the last one wouldn’t charge for some reason and had to stay in Aussie to be fixed.  We decide we need to buy a new one (or repair other if easy) in the morning as there is no way we can do this travelling without the maps and camperstops it provides us.  They are both invaluable and absolutely necessary. Damn another night we didn’t mean to be here, but at least it is free, so Monday morning and we head into the next town where there is a shop.  They open at 1.30pm – who does that on a Monday. Yes here in Switzerland they open late, must be because they have huge Sunday sessions.  We do purchase a new tablet, thankfully for such an expensive country the price is about what I would pay in NZ or Aussie for the same tablet.

Scot wants to see Montreux before we head out of Switzerland,  ‘Smoke on the Water’ and all that. (For those who don’t know Deep Purple wrote that song in Montreux after the studio they were supposed to record at went up in flames and sent smoke across lake Geneva).  So we leave Marin where we bought the tablet and head to Montreux.  The old tablet still says 94% and I haven’t had time to set up the new one, so fingers crossed the old one will get us to the lake and beyond.  As we reach Lausanne unfortunately the tablet dies.  I am left with only instinct on where we need to go so head around the lake front towards Montreux.  It has been a tough day so when we spot a camping sign we decide to check it out.  The camp is a marina right on the lake front but it closed early October.  I need to set up the other tablet so we sit there and as we do a lovely gentleman walks down and asks us what we are looking for.  It ends up he lets us stay there for a good price, with free washing machine and dryer (we have 3 huge loads since no washing done for 2-3 weeks).  So good, so we decide we will stay for two nights so I can set up the new tablet plus Scot wants me to make some mulled wine as we bought some ingredients in Neuchatel.  Our outlook from the van is over the Swiss Alps and we are 10ft from the lake edge looking down towards Montreux at one end and Geneva at the other end, a magic location.

I cook up a storm and end up giving the owner one bottle of mulled wine as he gave us the sugar we needed plus we had free washing which would normally have cost up about aud50.  I hope he enjoyed it, Jamie Oliver’s mulled wine recipe is devine.  Tuesday morning and we decide to walk into Vevey as this is the next town.  Montreux is 10km away and my bike gears aren’t working so is too far to bike from the camp.  It is only 3 kms and as I am improving health wise each day (although still far from 100%) it is a pleasant quiet walk.  We stop at McDonalds and sit having a coffee for over an hour while I use their wifi to download and update the new tablet.  They are definitely our best friend here for wifi and coffee.  We then walk around the town, up to the church (a quick prayer at each church doesn’t hurt just in case one day it works), then a walk back along the lake front to the van.

We head out next morning and stop in Montreux which is a lovely town and I could see myself coming back here to spend a week looking around.  We need to use up all our Swiss francs as we leave here in about half an hours drive.  We find a nice looking café and I think I have enough francs to cover the coffee, apple tart and baguette, but at the end I am 15c short.  Buggar, so we end up having to have another coffee and we pay for that with euro (some people here do take it) and use the change for the shortfall of francs.  Not using the euro is frustrating when you need to use up all your foreign currency when you leave a country not using euro.  Anyway out of Switzerland we head and we have decided we need a stop in France at one of our favourite locations we stayed 6 years ago.  Aix les Bains, a lovely little town on another lake front in France.  We stop at a campsite as it is only 5 euro more than the camperstop here and we get a shower and toilet plus security.  We have been getting worried about some water that seems to be leaking out of the one side of our van and we don’t know where it is from.  We have had dry beautiful weather for the past 3-4 weeks so it can’t be rain water and there is too much to be overnight dew.  We go to the Skiff Pub here where we stayed last time and have a drink.  The people speak slightly more English than last time but I still try out my French here.