Wednesday 23rd September
We head down though all the lovely little towns towards Cesky Krumlov which we had heard was a great place to see. The Czech Republic is a really lovely country scenery wise. We love driving off the highways here as the roads aren’t too bad and the towns are great to drive through. This proved the case when we spotted a large castle in the hills and when I saw the sign for it plus a motorcycle museum we quickly turned off as often we hesitate and miss out. After forking out 150K to park- rogueing buggers- we walked up the hill to the castle, no mean feat for Vicki as the cup of concrete hadn’t worked much but she is one to soldier on. It was a grey day rain holding off but we decided not to pay up to $40aud to look inside so walked around it instead. We came upon an enclosure in the moat where a rare black bear resides. It was really a horrible place and filthy with a water pond that was nearly empty and green. No trees or grass. The pictures near it showed what it was like probably ages ago but nothing like it now. The bear was in his little hideaway and we heard a comment from a guide that she hadn’t seen it move out for weeks. It is so cruel and we were both really sickened. Other tourists were going on how ‘cute’ it all was and we were saying it was disgusting and the castle should be ashamed of themselves. Not sure what they thought of that. Anyway we took photos and am seriously considering sending them to WWF or similar.
I couldn’t wait to leave so headed down to the bike museum. After thinking it was closed we went around to the hotel entrance and a young girl let us in so I had a look around the bikes on my own. This is one of the best Jawa (they are Czech built) collections around and had some really neat bikes including speedway solos and legends of the sport including NZ’s own Barry Briggs & Ivan Mauger. As I had read Barry Briggs Autobiograpy when we had to fly back to NZ in June I found it very interesting. We were chatting to the girl about travelling etc when the owner arrived and of course he wanted to show me around and we chatted about speedway and bikes & NZ & Aussie racing which was a treat. In hindsight I wish I had asked him more questions and learnt more even with his limited English. And we didn’t get charged so bonus there. We had a coffee before taking off to Cesky Krumlov. But I didn’t buy a bikeT shirt he had for sale as they were in red which is not really a colour I wear. Bugger.
We were a little late arriving in town here since we had left Prague a bit late and it is quite a distance to drive, along with the stop. There were a couple of places we could park up which we checked out. Both looked quite dreadful and rundown derelict places so we decided we weren’t staying there. We went out of town a bit to a campsite called Camping Paradijs – and we though yeah right sure it is. It was 6km out of town and on a little river in the middle of nowhere really. When we pulled in, they had the most beautiful gardens and what a lovely place it was. They were entitled to call it what they did.
We chatted to the owner who understood a little English and with a few handsignals we parked in a secluded garden area on our own. The owners are very friendly which makes a nice change from some as you get the impression that they don’t want to help. Again we got great tv reception and we watched NZ play Namibia. Also there is a great retro channel playing music videos. So a few beers and a turkey meal in bed watching tv –heaven after reading a thousand books.
The camp is in a valley surrounded by forests with a river running through and it is indeed paradise. There are heaps of apple trees, raspberry vines and colourful flower beds. We reluctantly drove into the town next morning all packed up in case we do not decide to go back to Camp Paradijse (6 kms to far for us to bike on very busy & hilly roads) and start to explore this quaint and obviously busy tourist stopover. After our obligatory stop at practically the first café we see for a coffee and apple strudel (which reminded us of Holland) we explored another fantastic old town with architecture we just can’t get enough of so old and sometimes derelict but functional and full of charm. Vicki bought a bright orange T shirt and I am still on the lookout for a bike or beer one.
We had to go back to put more $$ in the parking for the van and sometimes you do not know how much to put in as it is a foreign language so better to side on less to start. We quickly made a sandwich on the run then headed back to town this time heading to the castle. We meandered our way through the enclosed walls dodging bloody tourists ( we never cease to be amazed how the guides just stop in the middle of the main thoroughfare to deliver their spiel and stuff everybody else) Again we saw an enclosure with two bears this time that seemed a hell of a lot better off than the lone one from the day before but still very sad and listless but at least these ones had fresh water and a bit of green. I would love to put the powers that be in their place for a week and see what they thought! The view from up here was brilliant and I have some great views to kick-start my art career. I had a quick ale costing a $ and then walked back down. I was keen on visiting the Eggenburg brewery but couldn’t find the map to it so walked around the river (which is a little like a small scale Brisy) only to find it closed for renovation. Duhh! I wanted a refreshing ale but since we had done extra miles for nothing best to be prudent and not. Then we were running out of time and we still hadn’t seen the last bit of the old town but due to the extended walk etc etc had to get back the van. Vicki was feeling pretty low by now so we headed back to camp early doing a shop on the way. I felt a bit bad as there was a bit of crossed wires but it allowed us to get our washing done and relax down by the river so peace was restored. As we reflected we toasted some canoeists floating down the river and thought how lucky are we. The camp lady washed and dried our washing for us which was lovely and the owners sister Maria who looks after the garden let Vicki pick a large bowl of fresh raspberries and didn’t want anything for them. Along with a handful of gooseberries and fallen apples we felt very privileged and it definitely lived up to the title of Camp Paradisje.
As we left at 10.30 which is quite good for us (read Scot) we decided to push on and make a good fist of getting close to Krakow as we had booked in for a day tour of Auschwitz. Our first stop was a small picturesque village called Telc which after parking found the obligatory market square where, even though we wanted coffee but ended up with soup where my Goulash was ok but Vicki’s chicken soup was ordinary. It was a shame as we walked around the square there were some quaint cafes. Just goes to show when will we learn not to go to the first one you see.
On the road again and a long drive today but finally ended up (7pm) at a very clean and quiet camp and we think they didn’t charge correct but we weren’t complaining. The drive was a mix of highways and country roads. It is funny but no matter how much you plan, and the tablet is a crucial navigating device, just when you need direction the most , yes that road is closed off and quickly please find an alternative route before the truck runs us off the road. But again the countryside is so unique and we love not being on the motorway. Luckily the roads are in great order and we cruise through small villages and wonder at the life they lead and what they do. Much too soon we are back on the main road but as it is getting dark , beats cruising, and it is dark as Vicki miraculously finds our stop. The lady speaks English at the camp but not enough to find out where to empty the toilet, so I go and ask and she says ‘I think it is here’. It is dark and raining and we really have to empty it if we want to use it so I empty it into the sink where I figure it is(no signs anywhere) and wonder why it is not going anywhere except on my feet. Then I see the hole in the ground and have a Homer moment. Shit I have emptied it in the fresh water fill up. So I quickly go back to the van and get a paper coffee cup and empty out the sink hoping the toilet paper has dissolved enough. Thank god no one crapped in it and I had to dig out a turd. However next morning all looked ok. Lesson 101 leave this stuff till daylight and thank god men do it and stuff it up.
